Anna Bruce finds a growing mezcal community
Learning about Mexico, Oaxaca, and even Mezcal there are few historical sources that don’t reference the influences the Spanish brought with them when they colonized Mexico (and most of Central and South America). On a recent trip to Madrid, we were intrigued to find how Mexico, Oaxaca, and especially agave spirits are in turn, influencing Spain’s beautiful capital city.
My partner Brooks, and I planned a three night layover trip in Madrid, while returning to Oaxaca from the UK. Both of our first time. With just a bit of quick research leading up to the trip we had visions of drinking vermouth on the rocks with anchovy tapas on street corners. We did not expect, however, to find some of the more extensive agave collections we have seen in a long time, even in Oaxaca!
We were excited to see a great selection of Mexican owned tequila and mezcal brands, as well as Mexican spirits that are newer to the European bars including Sotol, Raicilla and Bacanora. We visited some great bars that all turned out to be Mexican owned. We also learnt about initiatives sharing their knowledge and passion about agave spirits with Spain, where there is a growing local community, poised to be the next big market for agave.
According to data from the CRT (Tequila Regulatory Council), Spain has been positioned since 2020 as the third importer of tequila worldwide, only after Germany in second place and the United States.
Brooks and I were taken in by the easy social nature of Madrid, getting advice about what to order and where to go next, as we meandered through the streets and parks. After an evening of eating and drinking in the highly recommended Mercado Anton, we were winding our way to bed when we were called into a lively little bar.
We popped in for a final cocktail when we spotted a great mezcal, the Derrumbes Durango on the top shelf. After a few weeks away from our Oaxacan home we were craving our favorite spirit. The bar owner, after sharing a copita with us, more or less told us to leave (!) Fortunately this was only to put us on the path to his friend’s bar – Corazon Agavero – a Madrideño mecca for agave spirits.
Corazon Agavero was low-lit and had a buzzing atmosphere. when we came in. Luckily we were able to grab a couple of stools at the bar where we were hypnotized by the luminous backbar of agave spirits. There was a huge selection of tequila and mezcal, as well as Sotol, Raicilla, Bacanora, Pox, Charanda – no mean feat to attain in a city across the world from their Mexican source.
Despite the late hour we were generously welcomed by manager Roberto Tejada. While we perused their story-book of a menu, he gave us popcorn and tasted us on some of the brands we didn’t recognize.
Originally from Los Altos/ Guadalajara, Tejada told us he grew up drinking tequila. However, it was when he began working at El Gallo Altanero in Guadalajara that he began to “consciously try distillates and discovered that Jalisco was not only tequila, but that there are countless distillates to discover.”
“When I started to delve into the world of spirits, it motivated me more than anything else. I started studying all the bottles we had in the bar and researching the history of each bottle and how they were produced.”
In 2019 Tejada came to Spain on a university exchange to what he describes as “the old continent”. He remembers that at that time there wasn’t much available in the way of quality agave spirits. Two years ago he was given the opportunity to move to Spain full time to work with agave spirits.
“There is nothing that makes me feel more representative of my culture and my origins than talking about these spirits from Jalisco, telling the stories behind each bottle and seeing the reaction of people when trying something so unique, literally trying a little piece of Mexico.”
Tejada says that their biggest success is seeing that the Mezcaloteca (Corazon Agavero) get better every day. The majority of the clients (Mexican, Spanish and the likes of Brooks and I) “are people who frequent the bar and who enjoy having a besito of mezcal.”
Currently they are recognized as one of the best cocktail bars in Madrid. “Our menu revolves around Mexico and seeing that people leave surprised and with something new every day that is one of the greatest successes.”
“Personally, I am very happy to be able to participate in bringing distillates to Spain that represent me. We have been working with Tequila 7 Leguas for a few months and to represent my Grandfather’s favorite tequila and a brand that I have seen since I was little, it is one of the triumphs that make me happy!”
Speaking to the future of agave spirits in Spain, Tejada says “every day there is more interest from brands to be present in Spain. Bartenders in Spain are very interested in all Mexican distillates and at a good level. In five years I see a consumer even more interested and looking for more and more Mexican spirits.”
One of the reasons the bar is so well stocked is the strong relationships they have with brands and Mexico. Tejada explains that although reading and studying agave spirits is valuable, you can’t beat the experience of visiting bars and producers “to fill your heart and spirit with raicilla! and tequila!”
This year they have a training visit to Mexico scheduled with the entire team of Corazon Agavero.
Since Tejada’s first experience in Madrid, when he couldn’t find quality or variety in agave spirits, things have changed significantly for the better. This is in part thanks to the work of the owners of Corazon Agavero, Grupo Entre Compas. Tejada explains that it was Entre Compas’ founders Felicia Covone and Wilmer Yajamin who helped him adjust to his new surroundings, “treating me like family.”
The Entre Compas project has been working since 2012, exporting brands and offering training experiences around agave spirits. Covone and Yajamin who are from Mexico and Ecuador respectively. Pioneering mezcal distributors in Spain, they have experienced first-hand the entire rise of mezcal.
Yajamin remembers how they had to push through challenges at the beginning explaining that in Spain they were received with the belief that “tequila was a cheap shot that was only useful for losing consciousness.” Speaking with NeoDrinks he said that it was very difficult to get mezcal into bars and restaurants in Spain. Even Mexicans (living in Spain) didn’t know what mezcal was.”
Yajamin’s agave spirit journey almost ended at the start, with an experience in Spain. “A friend brought me a bottle and I ate half a worm. He said he felt bad for two or three days and ended up hating mezcal for eight years.
Fortunately they didn’t give up. “In 2010, a person asked me if I knew Tobalá and Madrecuishe mezcal.” He gave it a second chance and was blown away by the experience of “trying a plant that had lived fifteen years, absorbed the energy of the sun and the earth, giving its life to become mezcal.”
He explained that the first thing he and Felicia did was become more professional, learn and train themselves. “I have been touring Mexico with tastings for twelve years, I have visited more than fifty tequila distilleries and about eighty mezcal distilleries. We dedicate our vacations to learning.”
Covone and Yajamin describe their journey beginning slowly as a passion project between friends. “Entre Compas.” They have endeavored to extend this circle through their newest project, the first agave spirits festival in Madrid, Piña Agavero. The fair was held on October 7 at La Casa Encendida and will be back for a second round later this year.
The original event was opened by José Torres, representative of the Tequila Regulatory Council in Spain, Oscar Pérez in charge of Business and Tourism of the Mexican Embassy in Spain and Jordi Miñarro, founder of 100% Mexico.
There were also speakers that presented topics from the world of agave spirits. A key speaker was Esteban Morales of Casa Endemica whose portfolio includes Derrumbes mezcal, La Venenosa Raicilla, La Higuera Sotol and Yowee Bacanora – all which can be found in Corazon Agavera.
Morales explains that with the new Mexican spirits reaching Europe, “we’ve been trying hard not to compete with each other. Nobody wants to take the position of tequila. No one in mezcal wants that. No one in raicilla, Bacanora, Sotol. We are all Mexicans, we are working together to build Mexican spirits as one and compete with gin, whiskey or vodka.”
According to Morales, the history of Spanish trade opened the market to “every single product from overseas.” As Madrid boasts some of the top bars of the world, their interest in agave spirits “ is going to affect others. Other people will open the back bar for agave spirits too.”
Morales considers the shared language makes Spain invaluable as a door through which to bring agave spirits to Europe, and that the gastronomy of Madrid makes it the perfect starting point. The fact that Mexicans can travel to Spain without a visa is also a help.
Tejada says the Piña Agavera event was a great success with “Mexican distillates of all kinds, from small to large brands, tequila, mezcal, sotol, raicilla, palmilla, everything! For the most part there were people from the professional field, but a lot of the general public also attended.” He says that for the next Piña Agavera they “are looking for a much larger place and even more brands. It is an opportunity to talk and meet the teachers behind each product.”
Although Spain is famous for late night dining, the sipping and snacking happens all day. It’s a great way to explore a new city, with the option to stop for a bite every few meters. You can treat yourself from dawn until well past dusk (well after 10 p.m. in summer) in trendy cafes, covered markets, hole-in-the-wall tapas bars, low-light bodegas and cutting edge cocktail bars.
We were so taken in by the easy social nature of Madrid, getting advice about what to order and where to go next, as we meandered through the streets and parks. A highlight was meeting a tipsy flight attendant who showed us how to pour Spanish cider from a great height (to stimulate the bubbles).
On our final day, having ticked most of our Madrid boxes, we spent the day bar hopping for drinks and tapas. We stopped in at Benditos Suenos and Viva Madrid for cocktails. Benditos Sueños is a small bar which claims to be Europe’s first Chilaquera (a place that specializes in chilaquiles) and has a decent selection of agave spirits with classic as well as flavored margaritas.
Viva Madrid is beautiful with a classic, Spanish tapas feel, with a facade of 19th century mosaic. It is not agave focused, but they do have some really interesting and tasty cocktails using agave spirits. Our favorite was the Our Negroni made with tequila infused with pimiento chipotle. Opening at midday, it’s a perfect start to drinking your way around Madrid.
Our final stop was a newer mezcal bar called Zotz, referring to a bat-like deity from mesoamerican culture. Mexican owned Zotz is a bright bar down a quiet street. Decorated with humorous retablo images (mostly pertaining to over drinking) it has a friendly day drinking kind of vibe. They do also offer food.
Zotz founder Luis Rivero remembers trying mezcal for the first time thinking it was a “cool drink, with attitude. I knew her and that she was undervalued; like a punk band from the 70’s.” Three years ago he moved to Madrid from Mexico City. Looking for a place to drink mezcal and beer he decided to open his own bar.
Rivero explains the challenges in opening a “mezcaleria” – a new concept to Madrid. “It is not a taqueria, taco-bar, cantina or anything like that.” It took some time for people to understand what they were coming to. Therefore the success has been to remain open and true to this concept.
“Thanks to mezcal I have had the opportunity to meet cool people from many countries and exchange points of view about it and the evolution it has had here in Europe, which is slow but advancing.” Rivero says.
During our (far too short) visit, we were enamored with the spirit of Madrid, from our first taste of vermouth to complex and creative cocktails. As lovers of Mexico and agave spirits, it was inspiring to see how much of an appreciation there is in Madrid for this culture. The highlight of the trip was finding some of the most dedicated agave nerds and extensive collections being appreciated by locals and tourists side by side.
These days you can feel the growing presence of Mexico across Europe, and the interest in agave spirits, and the community that comes with it, is part of that.
Entre Compas describe Mexico as “a country full of traditions, culture and incredible products and people that have to be made known in Spain, it is not an easy task to be ambassadors of such an incredible country in Europe, but without a doubt among compas, among friends, everything will be easier.”
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