Eating with the seasons is one of life’s great pleasures and privileges. As the weather turns crisp in Autumn, the pleasure of incorporating a warming mezcal into a meal is even more inviting. Rather than focus on one particular mezcal and its perfect pairing, we are switching it up for the season with a pairing that will make a delicious pairing with just about any mezcal you have on hand- opening this one up to anyone and everyone who already has a stash of bottles in their home bar.
To celebrate the bounty of harvest season we are turning to warm spices and an iconic ingredient that always steals the show this time of year: squash. Squash is one of the most important foods of the Americas, and like agave, has a strong history of feeding the first peoples of this land since before recorded history. The marriage of flavors between squash and agave is an historical one, and an easy one to find success in.
The Mezcal
Squash is a no fail ingredient when it comes to pairing with mezcal- highlighting the sweet, earthy, and roasted flavors within artisanal mezcals. For this reason, I encourage you to use what you have on hand- or better yet, make yourself a small flight if you have multiple mezcals on hand- observing which flavors are highlighted in each different spirit alongside the same pairing. Personally, I enjoyed this with a flight of Don Amado Pechuga, Dos Pasiones Tobala, and El Rey Zapoteco Tepextate, and each mezcal offered a unique and enjoyable set of complementary flavors.
The Pairing
The pairing is made up of two parts: the squash, and the creamy spicy sauce. I prefer to use squash on the sweeter side, like delicata and acorn, rather than butternut or kabocha, which tend to be extra rich and creamy in texture but earthier in flavor. Since the sauce already brings the velvety texture, I like the contrast of the sweetness of the squash with the spiciness of the sauce. Feel free to use your favorite variety of squash, or to mix and match a few varieties.
For the salsa matcha, I used an extra spicy powdered blend I bought in the market in Puebla which doesn’t contain any oil, but a prepared salsa matcha, bought or homemade, also works well. Since each salsa matcha spice blend or prepared salsa is unique- be mindful of the level of spiciness and amount of oil you use, starting with small amounts and adjusting as you go. If you are opting for the homemade route, I encourage you to talk to your Mexican friends to find an authentic recipe; I always include a variety of dried chilies, sesame seeds, and peanuts.
After creating various iterations of this pairing I decided to keep it simple, and offer this simple format as a jumping off point for your creativity. For me this is a meal when served alongside spicy greens in a vinaigrette and warm tortillas or flatbread. It’s also easy to turn into a family style dish by serving the squash in bite sized pieces on top of dressed greens, adding toasted pecans and pepitas, and thinning the sauce into a dressing. Put it on toasted bread to make bite sized finger foods. Or add maple to the sauce and serve as a dessert pairing. The possibilities are many- there is plenty of room to put your spin on it.
Recipe: Squash with Salsa Matcha Yogurt
Ingredients (2 servings)
- 1 Squash, such as acorn or delicata
- 1 cup greek yogurt
- 2 teaspoon salsa matcha spice mix (no oil)
- 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
- Flaky finishing salt
Method
Thoroughly mix the salsa matcha into the yogurt, and adjust for desired spiciness. If using prepared salsa matcha, go easy on the oil at this stage, leaving room for finishing oil at the end. The base for the sauce can be made up to 24 hours in advance, and should be allowed to rest for at least 1 hour for the flavors to permeate. Preheat the oven to 350. Wash and slice the squash in half, and remove the seeds. Bake the squash, cut side down, for 25-45 minutes, or until soft, depending on the variety and size of the squash. When ready to serve, gently swirl extra virgin olive oil into the infused yogurt and top generously with flaky salt. Spread the sauce liberally over the squash and enjoy.
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